The fashion industry in Milan continues to struggle with size diversity, with little evidence of real evolution on the runway during the fall-winter 2024-25 season. While some designers included models of normal size, the thinness of some models remained a topic of discussion. Ashley Graham, who often finds herself as the only larger model on runways, expressed her frustration with the lack of diversity in the industry.
One highlight from the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week was Maximilian Davis’ collection for Ferragamo, which juxtaposed oversized masculine woolen overcoats with wispy, transparent embroidered dresses. Inspired by the 1920s Prohibition era, Davis used clothing as a way to conceal and reveal, mirroring a time when people used fashion to hide their activities. The collection featured broad-shouldered wool coats, flapper-inspired sequined dresses, and contemporary interpretations of 1920s styles.
At Dolce & Gabbana, Eva Mendes and Ashley Graham were front row fixtures, both exuding glamour in their outfits. The collection itself was a mix of tuxedo tailoring and lingerie mastery, with designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana creating looks that ranged from more revealing to more modest. Cropped tuxedo jackets paired with lacy bras and sheer sarong skirts tied with satin bows showcased the designers’ ability to play with sensuality and sophistication.
On the runway, Dolce & Gabbana’s collection exuded sexiness, with a color palette predominantly in black, punctuated with touches of liquid gold and silver. Naomi Campbell closed the show in a layered lace bra, front-slit sarong, and fetish leather gloves, adding a touch of drama to the collection. The designers played with varying levels of modesty, offering form-fitting tuxedos with cigarette trousers or short shorts, as well as cropped jackets that allowed for peek-a-boo moments.
Overall, Milan Fashion Week showcased a mix of styles and influences, from the masculine silhouettes and flapper-inspired looks at Ferragamo to the sensual tuxedo tailoring and lingerie mastery at Dolce & Gabbana. While the industry still has work to do in terms of size diversity, designers like Maximilian Davis and Dolce & Gabbana are pushing boundaries and exploring new ways to celebrate freedom and empowerment through fashion.
